It’s helpful to think about this Loewe present as a companion piece to the JW Anderson assortment in London. Whereas there Jonathan Anderson was prodding us into questioning the fakeness behind our screens, right here he got down to discover the faux in nature. An enormous fiberglass anthurium grew out of a gap within the ground in his present location, and he tailored the unreal-looking flower for clothes, molding bodices that wrapped across the torso and bra cups out of the suggestive blooms. These weren’t femme fleurs in the way in which trend used to conceive of the time period—for one factor the anthurium’s nubbly spadix seems like nothing a lot as an erect phallus; for an additional the flower is toxic. The ladies who will put on these attire fancy themselves extra harmful than dainty.
There’s a brand new component of provocation to Anderson’s work because the pandemic, an upping of the style ante that had his viewers on the sting of their seats immediately. A part of the attraction of Loewe is the present earlier than the present. This season, it included the costume designer Sandy Powell, the musicians Oliver Sim and Dev Hynes, the actors Maude Apatow and Hari Nef, and, on the runway in look 1, Taylor Russell, who stars alongside Timothée Chalamet within the Luca Guadagnino movie Bones and All (the trailer of which was launched simply yesterday).
Russell wore a strapless black velvet gown with panniers jutting out from the hips, a silhouette lifted out of the Baroque interval through the Twenties gown de type that’s as soon as once more showing on the runways. Anderson revisited it in three different colours. Repetition was a motif in and of itself right here. There was one other quartet of unusual attire whose fronts have been swagged and suspended from triangular wire peaks that reached up towards the face. Nonetheless extra brief kinds—you might hardly name them attire—have been constructed from enameled steel painted with flowers. As for the babyless child carriers, they appeared form of like fabric-covered variations of the gold breastplates that made such an impression on the Loewe runway a 12 months in the past. All of it goes again to the anthurium flower, which Anderson’s present notes described as “a product of nature that appears like an object of design and [was] handled as such.”
The distinction between industrial design and garments is the physique, and Anderson’s experiments with fiberglass and steel pose a query: Do they prohibit motion or assist the ladies who put on them take up area? Ambiguities apart, there have been softer items that showcased the Spanish model’s know-how with leather-based, like outsized shirtdresses and sweatshirt attire with cut up arms that allow the limbs swing free, in addition to romantic night numbers whose delicate materials have been gathered with bows on the waist.
Anderson referred to as the tops and trousers within the pixelated squares of Minecraft glitches “this odd phantasm that immediately breaks the sample,” like avatars from the digital world made flesh. Actual fakes. Anderson retains pushing the bounds.